The sun was just beginning to paint the sky with hues of orange and pink as our safari vehicle departed at 6:30 a.m. from our camp in Meru National Park. We had arrived in Meru a day earlier, checked into the Rhino River Camp and had an amazing sundowner in the wild before dinner.
We were a team of media personnel from Ghana (Francis), Nigeria (Andrew), France (Christine), Uganda (Edgar), and Tanzania (Wilson), led by an official from the Kenya Tourism Board called Josphat, and our destination was one of profound significance: the grave of Elsa the Lioness, whose story of freedom and resilience once captivated the world. It felt as though our journey through the vastness of Meru was more than just a safari (which was what was planned for us), it was a pilgrimage to honour the spirit of a remarkable creature.
Our guide skillfully navigated the rugged terrain, and soon, we encountered some of the majestic inhabitants of the park. The morning mist gave way to clear skies as we had hoped to spot another rhino again as we did the evening prior, but we were not lucky this time. However, we were compensated with a herd of elephants that moved gracefully, their trunks swaying as they fed on acacia branches. A couple of buffalos, with their massive, sweeping horns, watched us cautiously from a close distance. These were three of the famed Big Five, each encounter leaving us in awe. We prayed to spot the last two, lion and leopard, before we leave, but it wasn’t meant to be.
However, the deeper we ventured into the park, the more it felt as though the wildlife was guiding us. Herds of impalas darted gracefully across the path, their coats glistening in the early light. Duikers and waterbucks, with their gentle eyes and nimble movements, emerged from the thickets, while kudus, with their striking spiral horns, watched us curiously. Zebras trotted alongside, their black-and-white stripes contrasting sharply against the golden grasslands, and giraffes towered above us, their long necks reaching into the treetops as they calmly chewed on leaves. Birds of every size and color flitted through the air, their songs creating a symphony that seemed to narrate our journey.
Despite the wonders around us, there was a sense that this expedition was about more than just encountering wildlife. It was as if Elsa herself was beckoning us, drawing us closer to the place where her wild heart found rest. Our guide, though experienced and knowledgeable, appeared to struggle with the exact route, and we veered off the trail a few times, only to be redirected by an instinctive sense of purpose and Google Map) that seemed to permeate the group. It took nearly three hours of winding through the thickets, navigating narrow paths and bitten by hordes of tsetse flies to finally arrive at the grave side.
The grave of Elsa was a simple, unassuming site marked by a plaque, nestled under the shade of an old tree. Yet, there was a palpable presence there, an energy that seemed to reverberate with the legacy of a lioness who had lived freely and fiercely. We gathered quietly, a solemn reverence filling the air. The journey, it seemed, had culminated not just in reaching this spot, but in connecting with a story of love, courage, and wildness.
As we sat down to our bush breakfast by Elsa’s resting place, the stillness of the moment was profound. The sounds of the park continued around us, the rustling of leaves in the breeze, but there was also a deep silence, as though the spirit of Elsa was watching over us, a gentle guardian of this wild realm.
The Adamsons’ story of adopting and raising Elsa, then teaching her to fend for herself in the wild, had captivated the world. It was a tale of compassion and respect, of understanding that the bond between humans and animals could transcend fear and domination. And now, as we sipped our coffee and took in the beauty of the place, we felt a part of that story, even if just for a fleeting moment.
When Elsa returned to the Adamsons with her own cubs – Jespah, Gopa, and Little Elsa – it was a testament to her trust and affection for those who had nurtured her. Her life, cut short by a tick-borne disease, ended here in Meru, but her legacy lived on in the hearts of those who believed in the beauty of a life lived free.
It was almost noon when we finally left Elsa’s graveside, our hearts full, our minds reflective. The journey back seemed shorter than when we set off, as though the land was now familiar, the path clearer. We had come to witness the diversity and splendor of Kenya’s wildlife, but what we found was a connection to something deeper – a story that reminded us of the delicate balance between humans and nature, and the enduring power of freedom.
This experience is just a glimpse of what awaits visitors at the upcoming Magical Kenya Tourism Expo (MKTE), set to take place from October 2nd to 4th at Uhuru Gardens in Nairobi. The MKTE is East Africa’s premier travel trade show, offering a platform for networking and collaboration between local tourism enterprises and international buyers.
This year, the expo is expected to attract over 5,000 delegates and showcase Kenya’s diverse tourism offerings to the world.
For those who wish to explore beyond the usual tourist circuits, Meru National Park is a hidden gem. It’s a place where the story of Elsa the Lioness still lingers in the air, where visitors can walk in the footsteps of the Adamsons and feel the wild pulse of Africa. The grave of Elsa is not just a historical site; it’s a testament to the enduring spirit of wildlife conservation and the bond between humans and the natural world. Anyone visiting Meru should make it a point to stop by Elsa’s final resting place – a humble, yet profoundly moving reminder of the freedom that all creatures deserve.
As we prepare to share our experiences at the MKTE, we carry with us the memory of this day and the spirit of Elsa the Lioness. Her story, like that of Kenya itself, is one of resilience, beauty, and the unyielding call of the wild. We invite all who attend the MKTE to take a moment to explore Meru and discover the magic of this incredible land, where history, nature, and adventure converge in unforgettable ways.
